![]() ![]() Most importantly he has fostered greatness with amarone, Veneto’s signature red made from dried or appasimento grapes. CUVAISON 2007 CABERNET SAUVIGNON from vineyards high on Mount Veeder ($49.95) did not have quite the depth of the Dunn, but it had the same dark, brooding black fruit presence and sense of sinew, for half the price. Then, out of the minor leagues (under $50) came another mountain-grown Napa cab that sealed the deal. Those other overpaid $100 players from Napa’s floor seemed almost wimpy, or at least effete, in comparison. Here was a cabernet with more personality, with something to say about the gutsy nature of the cabernet grape, and the classic man vs nature conflict inherent in its creation. Most were impressively smooth and sculpted but not very arresting of challenging – until I hit DUNN VINEYARDS 2007 HOWELL MOUNTAIN CABERNET SAUVIGNON from Napa Valley ($96.95). As I tasted down the line I was struck not by how seductive and succulent they were but by how understated they were. The line-up of big name California reds is powerful and deep enough to field against the New York Yankees – Pahlmeyer, Far Niente, Peter Michael, Philip Togni, Aventura – etc. It is a blend of native corvine and other varieties from a single vineyard called Merlo. When have you ever had a young Quintarelli wine? And if everyone reveres and loves his wine so much why are so few wines made this way nowadays? QUINTARELLI 2002 ROSSO CA’ DEL MERLO, Veneto ($84.95) is firstly not a merlot. A man and a wine, living in another time, where time itself is the meaning of all existence. Over to Europe now, into the fairly tale world of Quintarelli – who I have always pictured to be the magical gnome-like smith in some Italian children’s storybook. The company’s top wrung cabernet has faced criticism for being a bit too oaky, obvious and generous in its youth, but fourteen years after it is showing engaging richness, considerable complexity and still bright, perfectly ripened if maturing fruit – more than just berries and cream. ![]() Stepping back almost a decade, BERINGER 1997 PRIVATE RESERVE CABERNET SAUVIGNON from California’s Napa Valley ($119.95) is ageing very nicely. If I had just $100 to spend on one wine in this release this would be my pick. Even more fascinating are the symphony of both youthful and maturing flavours in HENSCHKE 2005 MOUNT EDELSTONE VINEYARD SHIRAZ from the Keyneton sub-district of the Eden Valley in South Australia ($99.95). BAROSSA VALLEY ESTATE 2005 E & E BLACK PEPPER SHIRAZ ($89.95) – an old favourite of mine (and many others) – is very complex, with great tension and depth. Six years of age is hardly old times for big Australian reds but again, given our fixation with new releases, it is fascinating to watch the early development of these wines, with leather beginning to creep into the flavour mix, and tannin softening a bit. If a New World wine is too hot (high in alcohol), overly ripe, volatile, or low in acid it will probably never be much better down the road.Ī pair of 2005s from Australia begin to tell the tale. And the better the balance the more gracefully the wine will age. The more depth or density the longer the wine will age (which is particularly pertinent to New World wines). It is always a matter of fruit depth and balance, which needs to be clearly evident when the wine is young. I am often asked “how do you know a wine will age well?” The answer has nothing to do with where it comes from. This advertisement has not loaded yet, but your article continues below. We get so accustomed to tasting young and delicious California, Australian and other New World reds that we tend to forget they, too, can age. One sub-plot of this release is the opportunity to try mature icon reds from the New World – at prices equal or less than current vintages. My picks are not necessarily the highest scoring or most famous kids on the block. And within this set I have isolated a couple of themes of interest (I hope). I did not get to taste this entire release but I have picked off the big names, because it is in this snack bracket that objective critique is most useful. ![]() ![]() And there is nothing wrong with all that, as long as you know what you are paying for. A notoriety often backed the force of personality or wealth of the winemaker or owner. And that fame is usually derived from being not only excellent quality, but having a story that at one point thrust them into the spotlight. You are paying a huge premium for their fame. Activate your Online Access Now Article content If you are a Home delivery print subscriber, unlimited online access is included in your subscription. Manage Print Subscription / Tax Receipt. ![]()
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |